Napkin pic.jpg

 Welcome to “No Pattern, No Problem!”

In this class we will explore the fundamentals of cutting without the use of a paper pattern. Until the mid-19th century clothing was not cut out using a pattern pattern. Instead cutting diagrams, existing garments and the experience of the cutter guided how fabric was cut out. In this class we will practice cutting out geometric pieces using only measurements, pins, pencil, tape measure and ruler.

DSC01258.jpg

What this class is: A deep dive into cutting by translating measurements directly onto the fabric using 18th and early 19th-century cutting methods. This class aims to teach you a sense of self reliance. Encouraging you to trust yourself and not rely on a paper template. Using a napkin as a warm up to practice marking on the fabric and pulling threads. We will then move into a robust project: cutting a shirt c.1820-1840 as a garment to practice this skill on. This skill translates to other garments cut by geometry such as: 18th-century shifts, petticoats, handkerchiefs, cravats and neck stocks to name a few.

What this class is not: An instruction in how to sew garments together.

Materials and Supplies

Fabric:

Napkin: 1 yard— lightweight to medium weight linen (4 oz to 6 oz).

Shirt: 3 yards— medium to heavy weight linen (6 oz to 7 oz).

Suppliers of linen I like:

https://zadiegrossman.com

https://burnleyandtrowbridge.com

https://fabrics-store.com

Tools:

Pins

Pencil

Fabric measuring tape

Ruler (straight edge)

Dressmaking scissors

Small embroidery scissors

 

 Cutting Out A Napkin

Napkin pic.jpg

Cutting out a linen napkin is a perfect beginning project to learn how to cut without a pattern. In the video below we practice our skills of: translating measurements directly onto fabric, cutting technique and pulling threads for a precise cutting line. We will cut out a 18” by 18” (45 cm by 45 cm) linen napkin to practice these skills.

 Cutting Out A Shirt c. 1820 to 1840

In this section we will use a measuring guide to measure ourselves or a customer to cut out a shirt design based on an example from c. 1820 to 1840. In the following hand-outs and videos, we will go over: what pieces make up the shirt, what measurements are needed, how to measure different body types, how to translate these measurements onto the fabric to cut out the pieces. I would recommend printing out the measurement guide (which is a PDF found attached in the Patreon post about this class) and watching the videos all the way through, then jumping in to practice the skills.

DSC01258.jpg
DSC01265.JPG

Shirt Study and How and What To Measure On the Body:

How to Cut Out a Shirt: