Welcome to “Hand-Sewn, Self-Finished Seams”

In this pre-recorded workshop you will learn how to sew five samples of hand-sewn, self-finished seams. No need for a serger here! We will practice a mantua-maker’s hem (seam), butted seams, a double felled seam known as German hemming, flat-felled seam with a backstitch and a flat-felled seam with a running stitch/backstitch combination. The five seams taught are perfect for unlined garments both historical or modern. The class will go over applications for each seaming technique. These techniques are based off of the teacher’s study of clothing that was orginally worn in the colonized Atlantic World, c.1760-1830. To learn more about your teacher, Sarah Woodyard click here.

It is important to recognize that the teacher’s training is in English and from a Western, colonizer perspective. You will see the names of these seams and techniques are in English. However, the same techniques were done across the world and have different names and applications depending on place and time. There is no one way or right way to understand these stitches. This class is only one perspective. If you have a different name or application based on your experience please do not hesitate to reach out. Hand sewing has the power to seam us together.

Workshop format: This workshop is organized in a series of sections with a pre-recorded, close-captioned video as the key manner of instruction. There are five seams this class goes over. You are strongly encouraged to watch the video before you start sewing. This class is designed for you to go at your own pace using the pre-recorded videos for instruction. Pause, rewatch and review to hone your seaming skills. The goal of this class is to teach you to hand-sew a variety of self-finished seams that can be applied to both historical and modern garments.

Class Index

 Material and Supplies

Fabric: Light to medium weight plain woven linen, cotton, silk, wool, tencel or a blend of these: For each seam sample you will need TWO pieces of fabric cut 9 inches (22.5 cm) by 2.5 inches (6.5 cm). There are five samples to practice in this class.

Thread: Any thread you have easily accessible but here are some options I like:

Linen (match weight to textile). For medium weight to lightweight use 80/2, 80/3; for lightweight use 100/2, 100/3. I like to use a contrasting thread to make the stitches visible. But it is up to you! You can buy contrasting or matching thread.

  • Great selection here!

  • Do not forget the beeswax for coating your thread here!

Silk

  • Gutermann silk is easy to get here and is a really good quality.

Quilters Cotton

Needles: I’d recommend size 7,8,9 or 10 “sharps,” “appliqué,” or “embroidery” needles. The finer fabric the higher the number of the needle.

  • I love Bohin needles. Get them here!

Dressmakers shears: 8 inches.

  • My favorite shears are from William Whiteley and Co. in England who preserve the scissor making craft. Buy them here!

Small snips: Look for “embroidery” scissors.

  • My favorite small scissors are from William Whiteley and Co. in England who preserve the scissor making craft. Buy them here!

Measuring tape, ruler or seam gauge

Thimble (optional but encouraged): Should fit on the middle finger of your dominate hand. Not too tight but not too loose it falls off. Learn how to use one here!

  • Where to buy: Antique malls, eBay, etsy, Lacis has a fantastic stock here.

 Stitching Practice

This section has practice videos for each stitch used in this class. Before you begin to stitch please watch these close-captioned videos to practice your hand-sewing technique and then move into creating your seam samples. This section shows you how to sew ergonomically and how to use a thimble. And includes whipstitch, running stitch and hemming practice. It is so important to practice with a good foundation. My goal is to teach you a hand sewing technique that is sustainable so you can hand-sew clothing efficiently. To make the videos full-screen click the icon in the bottom right of the video.

Hand-Sewing Posture and Technique:

Threading A Needle/Knotting Your Thread

How To Hand-Sew With A Thimble

Whipstitch

Running Stitch

Hemming/Felling

 Mantua-Maker’s Hem (Seam)

A Mantua-maker’s hem is a self-encased seam created by putting the right sides of your fabric together and hemming the seam. It looks like a French seam when it is complete but the construction technique is different.

Applications:

  • Modern skirt side seams.

  • Modern unlined shirt side seams.

  • Modern unlined sleeve and armhole seams.

  • Modern loose pant side seams.

  • Substitute for a French seam.

  • Sleeve and armhole seams c. 1800-1840, colonized Atlantic World.

  • Petticoat side seams c. 1760-1840, colonized Atlantic World.

  • Gown skirt side seams c. 1760-1840, colonized Atlantic World.

Left Handed Right Handed

 Butted Seams

Butted seams are seams that join two pieces of finished edges together. These finished edges can be a closed selvedge on fabric or a pre-hemmed textile. A whip-stitch is used to join the two pieces of fabric together and is intended to lay flat when finished.

Applications:

  • Modern skirt side seams.

  • Modern unlined shirt and shoulder side seams.

  • Shirt side seams, c. 1750-1840, colonized Atlantic World.

  • Shift side seams, c. 1750-1840, colonized Atlantic World.

  • Sheets

  • Coverlets

Left Handed

Right Handed

Felled Seam: German Hemming

German hemming is a double felled seam. It gets it’s name from a description in The Workwoman’s Guide from 1840. Both raw edges are turned under and felled to create a flat seam.

Applications:

  • Modern Korean wrapping cloth bojagi. To learn more click here.

  • Modern unlined shirt shoulder, armhole and side seams.

  • Modern unlined sleeve seams.

  • Modern loose, lightweight pant side seam.

  • Modern skirt side seam.

  • Shirt, c. 1750-1840, colonized Atlantic World.

  • Shift, c. 1750-1840, colonized Atlantic World.

Left Handed

Right Handed

 Felled Seam: Backstitch

This flat-felled seam is based on a 19th-century shirt in a private collection like the shirts worn in Bridgerton. This felled seam is done in two parts: 1) Stitch the seam with a “reverse backstitch.” 2) Open up the seam and fell down the raw edge.

Applications:

  • Modern unlined shirt shoulder, armhole and side seams.

  • Modern unlined sleeve seams.

  • Modern loose, lightweight pant side seam.

  • Modern skirt side seam.

  • Shirt, c. 1750-1840, colonized Atlantic World.

  • Shift, c. 1750-1840, colonized Atlantic World.

Left Handed

Right Handed

Felled Seam: Running Backstitch 

This flat-felled seam is a little quicker and slightly less strong than the backstitched seam. The teacher first learned this technique from a shift worn in New York c.1780. The side seams of the shift was done by stitching the pieces of fabric together with a running-stitch and the occasional backstitch. Then the seam was opened and the raw edges turned under and felled over.

Applications:

  • Modern unlined shirt shoulder, armhole and side seams.

  • Modern unlined sleeve seams.

  • Modern loose, lightweight pant side seam.

  • Modern skirt side seam.

  • Shirt, c. 1750-1840, colonized Atlantic World.

  • Shift, c. 1750-1840, colonized Atlantic World.

 Class Survey