18th and 19th-century shirts are hand sewn with a flat-felled seam. This flat-felled seam is based on a 19th-century shirt in a private collection like the shirts worn in Bridgerton and Jane Austen movies. This is perfect hand sewing for modern slow stitchers looking to sew an unlined garment without a sewing machine. This felled seam is done in two parts:
1) Stitch the seam with a “reverse backstitch.”
2) Open up the seam and fell down the raw edge.
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Hand sew a flat-felled seam without a sewing machine. Learn this historical hand sewing technique for your next cos-play, reenactment or modern make. This flat-felled seam is first stitched with a running-backstitch then the raw edges are felled over.
Time Stamps:
Fabric Placement :50
Stitching the Seam: 1:16
Basting the Raw Edge: 3:08
Press Open the Seam: 4:19
Fell the Seam In Place: 5:20
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Hand sewing a rolled hem gives you more control than a sewing machine. This technique is used often in historical sewing from 18th-century caps, head wraps, neck cloths to 19th-century chemisettes. It is also the perfect way to sew the hem on your silk Hermes scarf or hand sew a pocket square. Grab your needle and threads and let's practice our hand sewing together!
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Sew without a sewing machine! Learn to hand sew a whipstitched seam. This historical sewing technique is used to piece together fabric for zero-waste sewing and used to seam two selvedges together of hand woven fabric.
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Hand sew without using a sewing machine! Learn how to sew a hem with just a running stitch. This technique is based on historical sewing techniques but also works great for modern hand sewing projects! Try it out to remember what your hands can do!
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This is a stitch for historical hand sewing and for modern slow-slowing. A running-backstitch can create a fast and strong seam when done about 8-10 stitches per inch (2.5 cm). Learn to hand sew or practice your hand sewing to remember what your hands can do.
Click here for recommended hand sewing tools.
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Hand sewing a felled seam? Did you know there is another way to backstitch? This backstitch is great for a clean sewing line seen on the outside. Try it out!
Click here for recommended hand sewing tools.
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Backstitching is the strongest hand sewn stitch you can do. People often are concerned about the strength of hand sewing and honestly regardless of what stitch you use it is much stronger than you think. However, for seams that have stress on them like arm holes, shoulder seams and some body seams a backstitch is an ideal choice. Practice along with me to remember what your hands can do!
Click here for recommended hand sewing tools.
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A spaced-backstitch is the stitch used to top-stitch 18th-century and early-19th century jackets and gowns seen on English and European clothing. It is strong, pretty, flexible and quick. I also love to use this stitch to sew seams quickly and on knitwear to stitch strong but flexible seams.
Click here for recommended hand sewing tools.
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Right Handed:
Left Handed:
Hemming aka felling is a skill that opens doors to exciting hand sewing like: hemming, seaming and setting in linings. Like a running stitch it is remarkably versatile!
Click here for recommended hand sewing tools.
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A running stitch is a perfect stitch to practice your hand sewing with. Not only can it help you perfect your technique, but it is extremely verstile. From basting, hemming and seaming you can do a lot by just changing the stitches per inch.
Click here for recommended hand sewing tools.
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Right Handed: Left Handed:
How do people sew for hours a day BY HAND? Body position, thread tension, hand placement all matter! This video breaks down the minutiae of hand sewing technique.
NOTE: Something I forgot to mention was the length of my thread- its important to cut it about the length of your arm from shoulder to fingertips. This will allow you to sew with proper tensions.
Click here for recommended hand sewing tools.
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Metal thimbles can feel awkward to hand sew with. This tutorial walks you through how to use one with the hope that will enough practice you will learn to love your thimble.
Click here for recommended hand sewing tools.
Copyright Sewn Company 2021.
Metal thimbles can feel awkward to hand sew with. This tutorial walks you through how to use one with the hope that will enough practice you will learn to love your thimble.
Click here for recommended hand sewing tools.
Copyright Sewn Company 2021.
I have put together a basic hand sewing tools and guide for you! This is based on my experience sewing historical recreations of 18th-century and early-19th-century garments. The same materials work beautifully for modern hand sewing. None of the links are sponsored just materials I love to work with. This is just a guide, if you have a sewing tin at home from a family member definitely look there first. I bet there are some treasures to be found!
Needles:
I like to use a longer needles. This often means I use what is known as a sharp, appliqué and even embroidery needles. (Beading and darning needles are way too long). When selecting a size the bigger the number associated with the needle the finer the needle, the smaller the number the more sturdy the needle. Make sure to match your needle choice with your fabric weight.
For example:
Fine linens: size 10-12
Medium weight silk, linen, cotton or wool: size 9-11.
Very heavy weight wool: size 3-5
Suggested:
I love Bohin needles and you can find a great selection here:
Pins:
Like needles I like to use a longer pin. My preference is fine dressmakers pins that are 1 1/4 long.
Suggested: Dressmaking pins (size 20-1 1/4) they are fine and longer and do not have a plastic or glass head which is especially nice if you are doing historical sewing. I love Iris brand. You can find them here: https://www.voguefabricsstore.com/iris-swiss-superfine-pins-500.html
Small scissors (for snipping threads):
Tiny, sharp scissors are a must for clipping threads cleanly next to the work.
Suggested: William and Whiteley and Sons is producing scissors in England using traditional scissor making methods. Pick up a set here.
Thread:
Natural fibers are my preference based on historical sewing methods. Linen and silk are the two fibers that are strong and historically appropriate.
Linen
The weight of the linen should match the weight of the fabric. When shopping for linen you will notice numbers associated with the thread, for example 80/2 or 50/3. The first number has to do with the weight of the thread: the higher the number the finer the thread. The second number is the ply, or how many strands of thread are twisted together (like yarn) to make the thread. Don’t forget your beeswax to coat the thread! If you sew with linen sans beeswax the thread will fray. Make sure you run the linen over the beeswax several times until it is coated.
Silk
While you may think silk is fancy, historically it was a very commonly used sewing thread. It is stronger than steal. You can use it to sew up any fiber. Normally you will match the weight of the silk with the weight of the fabric. However there is one exception: 18th-century silk clothing. Silk garments tended to be stitch with heavier weight silk than the fabric. If you are sewing an 18th-century silk gown choose a heavier weight thread than you fabric.
Suggested: Burnley and Trowbridge have a great selection of both silk and linen threads. Check them out here.
Thimble: You may have one in your stash or you can find them at antique stores or on etsy. Do not buy a one size fits all. It should fit on the middle finger of your dominate hand. Not too tight but not too loose it falls off.
Suggested: These are amazing and are good for a wish list.
Pencil (make sure it is sharp)
Straight edge
Measuring device
Three stitches lay a solid foundation for hand-sewing:
A running stitch
A back stitch
A hem stitch
This video walks you through practicing all three. Try them out to remember what your hands can do.
