Patterning

Caul and band paper pattern.

In this section you will draft out two pieces for the cap: the caul and the band (see image). The border aka ruffle is not drafted, it will be cut directly from the fabric. Please use the “Cap Cutting Diagram” (also see below) for measurement guides. I would encourage you to follow these measurements for this cap. Once it is made up you will have a good idea if the pattern needs to be changed for you. However, at the the end of the class we will talk about how to wear the cap and make it look good!

In this section you will need: a pencil, ruler (gridded pattern maker rulers are great for this) about a yard of pattern paper or scrap fabric. For example: butchers paper (at local hardware store), light weight poster board, taped together paper grocery sack, back side of wrapping paper, an old bedsheet or muslin.


Take a moment to study the different sections and shapes of the cap. Below the image of the cap being worn is a discussion about how the cap measurements relate to the head.

This shows the different pieces of the cap and how they together. The band is shaped to give a nice curved towards the face. This was the style in “French night caps” c. 1775-1800.

You can see in this image how the caul goes over top of the hair from the crown of the head to the hair line. The band is made of two pieces that in total measure the distance from about mid-ear up and over the crown of the head to mid-ear (like a headband). The ruffle is double the length of the band around the section it is stitched. Photo: Fred Blystone.


In this video you will be guided to draft out one caul and one band. We will cut out the border aka ruffle in the next section when we cut the fabric.