Welcome!
Sarah Woodyard wears a French nightcap the style we will make in this class. She is stitching on a Quaker cap. Photo: Fred Blystone.
In this on-demand workshop you will learn how to stitch a simple, hand-sewn linen cap inspired by the designs worn in The Atlantic World, c.1775-1800. This style was referred to as a “French nightcap” in English. Even though it was called a nightcap this style was worn during the day to demonstrate an understanding of fashion and protecting the wearer’s hair while doing work.
We will be using a light-weight linen to make this cap and decorating it with a simple silk ribbon. This style made from these materials is appropriate wear for doing work like laundry, stitching, being a ladies maid, shopkeeping, etc. It’s not fancy, but it is also not plain. The construction details taught in this class are based off of my study of a variety of extant caps from this time period and my 10-years of experience studying and stitching 18th-century style clothing by hand. To learn more about your teacher, Sarah Woodyard click here.
French nightcap laying flat on table with sections labeled.
Many women from the African Diaspora wore head wraps for fashion and protection. Some wore caps and others left their hair uncovered. In this image you can see how a French nightcap is worn underneath a head wrap. Agostino Brunias, 1728–1796, Italian, active in Britain (1758–70; 1777-80s), Free West Indian Dominicans, ca. 1770, Oil on canvas, Yale Center for British Art, Paul Mellon Collection, B1981.25.74 Public Domain.
This image shows two different styles of a “French nightcap.” The one we are making is based on the woman in the bottom left. Note how depending on fabric and decoration it can go from simple, pretty and practical to something more ostentatious. Autumn. C. 1778/79. British. Accession number 148219001© The Trustees of the British Museum
Workshop Format
Detail: whip gathering for border aka ruffle with hemmed band behind.
This workshop is organized in a series of sections with pre-recorded, close-captioned videos as the key manner of instruction. I strongly encourage you to watch the video before you start sewing. This class is designed for you to go at your own pace using the pre-recorded videos for instruction. Pause, rewatch and review to hone your cap patterning and sewing skills. The goal of this class is to teach you how to draft the pattern and to hand stitch a “French nightcap.” Remember hand sewing is a practice. The goal is not to be an “expert” but to build a skill-set and continue to be curious. Let’s get to practicing!
Cut out pieces of “French night cap.” Upper left: Caul. Right: Two bands. Bottom left: Two borders aka ruffles.
Class Schedule (subject to change)
Posted May 13/14: Wash fabric; Pattern cap; Cut out cap.
Posted May 21: Rolled hems on borders.
Posted May 28: Small flat hems on bands.
Posted June 3/4: Whipstitch borders in preparation for whipped-gathers; Whip-gather boarders to bands.
Posted June 10/11: Lecture, Hem straight sections of caul; Sew caul drawstring with eyelet; Whipstitch curve piece of caul in preparation for whipped-gathers.
Posted June 18/19: Whip-gather bands to caul; Create ribbon trim.
Posted June 24/25: How to wear your cap.